![]() ![]() What Tools Do I Need To Test The Fan Motor And Fan Relay?Īs mentioned at the beginning of the article, you don't need anything fancy. The only test in the article that applies to the 2.0L equipped Escape is TEST 4: Testing The Fan Relay. The fan motors on the 2.0L Escape and Tribute are 3-wire type fan motors and testing them requires a slightly different but significant approach not covered by this article (yet). TIP 1: This article focuses on testing the 2-wire cooling fan motors and the cooling fan motor relays of the 3.0L equipped Ford Escape and Mazda Tribute. You can find this tutorial in Spanish here: Probando Los Ventiladores Del Radiador (3.0L V6 Ford Escape - Mazda Tribute) (at: ).ĪPPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles: You won't need any expensive or exotic tools to do it, since all you'll only need to use is a multimeter and a jumper wire.Īnd if you're a serious DIY'er, I've made some tool recommendations that you'll want to have in your tool box for such an occasion (as testing any other cooling fan motor). If you are still not getting heat in the cabin, or if both heater hoses are hot, check to make sure the blender door is not disconnected and the control cable housing is anchored on both ends.This tutorial will help you to test the cooling fan motors and cooling fan motor relays on your Ford Escape or Mazda Tribute in a comprehensive step-by-step way. You essentially want to keep that upen until the air has purged and nothing but a steady stream of coolant is flowing. As it warms up hold the flushing tee as high as you can, and carefully crack open the cap so you can hear air escape and some coolant will dribble out. Put the flushing tee cap on snug- start the engine, and let it warm up. When engine is cold Make sure the pressure cap is off, and system is full, put the pressure cap back on tight. To purge an air bubble Install a flushing tee in the upper most hose from jheater core- which is the also the hose that usually is attached on the engine at the highest point. When engine is warm, one heater hose will be hot, the other will be just alittle warm. If you have no heat, it likely has an air bubble that needs to be purged. If you do not get a puddle of coolant where the water flows out from the air conditioning drain, it is not likely leaking. You can do a system pressure test, if it does not leak down pressure, there is no leak. let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok plz rate this solution as i have a whole page of unrated posts, thanks please dont let it keep over heating as this will cause the cylinder head to warp and you would then need to get it skimmed to make sure its not warped, get the gasses test done as a compression test dont give you a true reading as the engine is not running when they do a compression test. its a plastic tube with blue liquid inside it then you take the coolant cap off and place this in its place you then run the engine and rev it up then you squeeze the rubber at the end of the tube and it then sucks the air out of the coolant and through this liquid then if it detects gasses from the engine in the coolant then this turns the liquid green and this is then telling you that the head gasket needs changing. Hi, its not good news im afraid by you describing that with the coolant cap off and revving the car causes the pressure to build up and push the water back out it sounds to me like the head gasket is on its way out, what you need to do is take it to a garage and dont have a compression test done you need to have a gasses test done, you can buy these yourself if you want to and what it does is this. SOURCE: My Granddaughter has a 2003 Honda Civic which has Outter mating surface of the rear water jacket gasket is flush with theīlock and the edge of the lower manifold, sometimes you can see where it ![]() Replace cap, run car again until it reaches operating temp. Turn the car off and refill the radiator to the The radiator cap off until the thermostat opens, the upper hose will be With a cold engine, open the radiator cap andĪdd 50/50 mix, fill the resevoir to the low mark. Refilling the system and getting the air out,the leak may only occur Pressure occurs when the glycol is operating temperature. Your thermostat may open slower, resulting in a pressure build up at the The rear ports are cast into the lower intake manifoldĪnd are dead ends, air can get trapped in that area. The rear lower intake bolts and the front ports are directly in front of Always find the source first, The rear water ports are directly behind ![]()
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